Here are a few decent Steampunk patterns for sale on Etsy
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Showing posts with label patterns. Show all posts
Showing posts with label patterns. Show all posts
Crochet Pattern: Victorian/Steampunk Ruffled Spats
The example shown was crocheted using sport weight yarn and a size F hook. Finished size will vary based on yarn selection, hook size, and tension. This pattern is written for making the right spat. To change the pattern for the left foot, work R10 in back loops only instead of front.
R1: With color A, Ch 57, turn.
R2: Starting in 3rd ch from hook, dc 55, ch 2, turn.
R3: Dc 55, ch 2, turn.
R4: Dc 3; ch 2, sk next 2 st; dc 50, ch 2, turn.
R5: *Dc 4, dc 2 in next st* repeat 10 times; dc 2 in ch sp, dc 3, ch 2, turn.
R6-7: Dc 65, ch 2, turn.
R8: Dc 3; ch 2, sk next 2 st; dc 60, ch 2, turn.
R9: *Dc 5, dc 2 in next st* repeat 10 times; dc 2 in ch sp, dc 3, ch 2, turn.
R10: Working in front loops only, dc 75, ch 2, turn.
R11: Dc 75, ch 2, turn.
R12: Dc 2 in each st across (150 st), ch 2, turn.
R13: Dc 2 in each st across (300 st). Fasten off and change to color B.
R14: Sl st into last st of previous row, ch 1, hdc 299. Fasten off and change to color A.
R15: Sl st into the end of R9, working in the open stitches left alongside R10; ch 2, dc 74, ch 2, turn.
R16: Dc 75, ch 2, turn.
R17: *Dc 6, dc 2 in next st* repeat 10 times, dc 5, ch 2, turn.
R18-19: Dc 85, ch 2, turn.
R20: Dc 2 in each st across (170 st), ch 2, turn.
R21: Dc 2 in each st across (340 st). Fasten off and change to color B.
R22: Sl st into last st of previous row, ch 1, hdc 339. Fasten off.
Weave in all ends and sew buttons into place to finish.
Corset Pattern Generator.
How to Make a Gathered Skirt with Knit Waistband
Here is a relatively easy skirt pattern. I find I can get a similar look to this steampunk skirt, which is $79.95 from pyramid collection, by using two belts to cinch up the skirt and a wider belt around the waist. All for the cost of some fabric on sale and a few thrift store belts. Note that the skirt to the left is approx 36" long. So you may or may not want to adjust the pattern below.
Knee-length skirt with 4" (10 cm) knit waistband (shown folded over) and gathered cotton voile skirt body. The circumference of the finished skirt body (ungathered) is twice the hip circumference, and the length of the finished skirt body is 18" (46 cm).
Materials
- Knit fabric with at least 40% stretch for waistband
- Lightweight woven fabric, like cotton lawn or voile, for skirt body
- Optional lightweight woven fabric for lining
Instructions
Measuring and Cutting
- Waistband: Cut 1 rectangle from your knit fabric as shown in Diagram 1.
- Skirt Body: Cut 2 rectangles from your woven fabric as shown in Diagram 1. To determine the skirt body length, measure from where you want the bottom edge of the waistband to hit on you hips down to your desired hemline, and add 1" (25 mm) for seam allowances. For example, I cut the skirt body 19" (48 cm) long for a knee-length skirt.
- Skirt Lining (optional): Cut 2 rectangles from your lining fabric as shown in Diagram 1. For a very long skirt, this lining won't be suitable; you'll need an A-line version for greater hemline sweep.
Note for the Length (L): The waistband length of 9" (23 cm) used in Diagram 1 creates a finished waistband that is 4" (10 cm) thick. For a different waistband thickness, multiply the desired thickness by 2 and add 1" (25 mm) for seam allowances. For example, for a 3" (76 mm) thick finished waistband, cut a length of 7" (18 cm), and, for a 5" (13 cm) thick finished waistband, cut a length of 11" (28 cm).
Note for the Width (W): For the best fit, you can figure out exactly how wide to cut the fabric for your waistband. Wrap a folded piece of your knit fabric crosswise around your waist where you want the waistband to be, stretching it for a snug fit. Mark the width and add 1" (25 mm) for seam allowances.
Diagram 1
Sewing the Knit Waistband
- First we're going to sew the waistband into a tube that will fit around your waist; it will have only one seam, which will be at the center back (CB). To do this, fold the width of the waistband in half with right sides together and sew the lengthwise raw edges (i.e., the edges that are 9" in length) together, as shown in Diagram 2.
- Now fold the waistband in half lengthwise with the wrong sides together, as shown in Diagram 3, and pin in place.
- Divide the waistband into quarters by marking the raw edges at center front (CF) and at each side.
Diagram 2
Diagram 3
Sewing the Skirt
- With right sides together, sew the side seams of the skirt body. Repeat with the lining.
- Divide the skirt into quarters by marking the top edge of the skirt body at CF and CB. Repeat with the lining.
- Sew a gathering stitch (i.e., a long, straight stitch with the tension loosened) with contrasting thread 0.375" (10 mm) from the top edge of the skirt body, starting and stopping with each quarter section of the skirt body and leaving long thread ends. Sew a second row of gathering stitches in the same manner 0.25" (6 mm) from the top edge of the skirt body. Repeat with the lining.
- Pull the thread ends on each row of gathering stitches to gather the skirt body to the width of the waistband, distributing the gathering evenly across each quarter section of the skirt body. Repeat with the lining.
- Place the skirt body around the lining with wrong sides facing, matching quarter markings. Pin in place.
Attaching the Waistband to the Skirt Body
- Pin the top of the skirt body to the (raw-edged) bottom of the folded waistband, with the right side of the skirt body facing the waistband and with quarter markings aligned. With the skirt body on top, sew the skirt to the waistband using a stretch stitch, as shown in Diagram 4 (if you have a lining, the lining will be on top with the skirt body directly underneath it and the waistband on the bottom).
- Remove the gathering stitches from the skirt body and the lining.
Diagram 4
Finishing Up
- Hem the skirt by folding the hem edge 0.25" (6 mm) to the wrong side twice, as shown in Diagram 5. Sew along the upper edge of the hem. Repeat with the lining, making sure the lining is about 1" (25 mm) shorter than the skirt.
Diagram 5
original
Versions of the Bustle Pattern!
Here are a few versions using the Bustle Skirt Pattern posted earlier!
Love them
by Mezzo
by Barbarella
by Seiz
my second attempt at the bustle skirt I did a few things differently:
Instead of having a full base skirt, I did 4 ruffles that just went 3/4 of the way around the waist. This required less fabric - I think ~2.75 yds
I also used 2 snaps instead of buckles to close it in front - this works well for quick release.
I also made the waistband only 2" high, which eliminated the problem of it being too far from my body.
You can also eliminate the problem with the waistband being to thick by staggering the fabric.
Bustle Skirt
This is the pattern I created to make my bustle skirt. You can use it as is, or change it up a little.
These instructions are super detailed, I'm basically walking you through what I learned along the way, so skip ahead if you're comfortable with some of these steps.
Decide where you want the waistband to sit - at your waist or hips, and measure that circumference + add a little bit for seams. I wanted mine closer to my hips and I wanted to use a tab-over belt-like closure to make it adjustable and add a little rustic flare, so I added a few inches to my hip measurement (42"). If you want to use a zipper or something else, you won't want to add that extra tab.
I wanted the skirt to come all the way round in the front and then to have extra layers on the bum. I also wanted my skirt to be about 18" long (finished length), with three ruffles on top of the full base skirt. In general, to make ruffles, you want to cut the rectangle to be at least 3 times as wide as the thing you're attaching it to, or wider to get adequate puff. Thus, the full skirt width is 3 x 42 = 126". The other three ruffles just sit on the bum, thus only go about 1/2 way round the waistband: 42/2 = 21 x 3 = 63". You don't have to be too exact about this though.
Then to create the layered effect, the ruffles should be different lengths, I just divided it out equally. Full skirt = 20", and the other three = 15", 10", 5".
I wanted the skirt to come all the way round in the front and then to have extra layers on the bum. I also wanted my skirt to be about 18" long (finished length), with three ruffles on top of the full base skirt. In general, to make ruffles, you want to cut the rectangle to be at least 3 times as wide as the thing you're attaching it to, or wider to get adequate puff. Thus, the full skirt width is 3 x 42 = 126". The other three ruffles just sit on the bum, thus only go about 1/2 way round the waistband: 42/2 = 21 x 3 = 63". You don't have to be too exact about this though.
Then to create the layered effect, the ruffles should be different lengths, I just divided it out equally. Full skirt = 20", and the other three = 15", 10", 5".
The little rectangle on the pattern below the waistband is just a little strip I cut out to attached a band of lace to. When I was putting all the pieces together without this piece, I felt it looked too plain :) So I cut out a 42" x 2" piece of taffeta and sewed lace onto it.
Once you've got everything cut out. Take your 3 ruffles and cut a curve into each end. I did this pretty roughly. You can then create a quick easy 'hem' by folding over the bottom twice (because it kind of frays) and ironing it. The great thing about fabric like taffeta is that it holds an ironed edge really well. BUT!! Be sure to use a piece of clean cotton or something in between the iron and your nice fabric, especially if your iron doesn't have a non-stick surface or if there's anything nasty melted onto your iron (like mine), so that your nice fabric doesn't get messed up.
Now its time to ruffle!!On each layer (full base skirt and 3 ruffle layers) one at a time, sew across the top of the fabric. Use a straight, long stitch and DON'T do the backwards stitch at the beginning and end that you'd normally do to keep your stitch from coming undone. Once you've sewn the length, pull on either the top or bottom thread on each side, and you'll see that your fabric starts to bunch. You might want to try this on a scrap first if you've never done it before (I did). The great thing about doing ruffles this way (as opposed to methodically pinning or pleating) is that is easy, fast, and flexible - you can make the ruffle as tight as you want. The other thing you have to make sure of is not to screw up your stitch. If you run out of thread halfway through or something, you won't be able to ruffle it properly. So, do this stitch & ruffle the full base skirt and 3 ruffle layers.
I'm not sure if this step was necessary, but if you want your waistband to be a little stiffer than just the doubled over fabric you'll want to do this... add interfacing. I'd never done this before, so what I learned is that there are many many weights of interfacing and it comes in black or white and comes in iron-on or sew-on. I used black, iron-on, medium weight. If I were to do it again, I'd use a heavier weight.So, fold your waistband in half, so that it's 42" by 4", press (iron). Cut a piece of interfacing to the same dimensions - 42" x 4", stick it in between your folded waistband & press. The interfacing will adhere to one side to the waistband... I guess only one side of the interfacing is 'meltable'??
Next, pin the whole kitten caboodle together. I did this in stages so I could make sure I did it right. I pinned all the ruffles together + full base skirt. Then I pinned the little 2" piece on top.
Folding the waistband back the other way, you can see what the finished product looks like from the right side.
On the other side (the inside, the side against your body), you need to sew the waistband down to the ruffles as well. But I didn't want to do it on the machine because I didn't want the stitch to show through the outer side. So I hand sewed it, just catching the ruffles, and not going all the way through. Then folded & pressed in the ends of the waistband & sewed those by hand as well.
I don't have a photo of it, but next I tried it on, pinned it roughly where I wanted it to close. I then draped it over a chair, and cut the outline of the full base skirt. I wanted it long in back and short in front. I just did it by eye, don't worry about having a messy edge, you'll 'hem' it and put lace over it. Just make sure you get the shape you want and that it lines up well with the other ruffles. Then do the same thing you did with the ruffles - press a 'seam' on the bottom edge of the full base skirt, pin, and sew the lace all the way around.
You're pretty much done now! Do whatever kind of closure you want. To do the belt-like closure, I cut out some leather I had - 2 layers thick for each strap - sewed the pieces together then sewed them to the waistband of the belt (being very careful to try it on several times & line it all up right to my hips). Then I sewed the buckles onto the other half of the waistband to line up with the leather parts. These buckles just hold by friction, so there was no need to punch holes in them like a traditional belt.
The last thing I did was to sew a tiny dart into the back of the waistband because it stood up a bit away from my body too much. I think if you made a smaller (2" instead of 4") waistband, you might not have this problem. The dart was no problem, but it does leave an unsightly (in my opinion) seam in the back that I'm thinking of covering with a ribbon flower or bow.
Alright, rock out! Your done!! Pair with your favorite fishnets, corset, and boots!
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